Friday Photo #256 – Polar Night

Polar Night - Friday Photo #256

Photo: Twilight glow of winter’s polar night, Flakstadøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. December 11, 2016. 10:49

As December arrives the Lofoten is soon about to enter the mørketid, otherwise known as the polar night – the time in which the sun does not rise above the horizon here in the north.

It has already been dark for a while, and so the sun a little above, or a little below the horizon doesn’t make too much of a difference to the day during the last weeks. But as the sun finally drops into the sea, even that weak bit of direct light will be missed as we enter a month of twilight and darkness.

Last year, living in Skjelfjord, I think I noticed the change to the mørketid much more as the sun was visible over the southern horizon until it finally vanished into the sea. Where I live now, with mountains closing in my valley to the south, the sun hasn’t been visible from my house since mid October. And so if I don’t leave home, as when I was stuck for 5 days due to a rockslide, I can only see the sun shining on the distant mountains.

I took this image on my way home from Leknes one morning. After what had seemed like endless weeks of storms and wind, the Islands suddenly fell silent. With an hour to go till noon, the day would become a bit brighter, but not much.

For the time being, I still enjoy the experience of the darkness. But next year I’ll probably find myself in Spain or Portugal for a week or two to refill on the vitamin D!

Camera Info:
Nikon D800
Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8
32mm
ISO 100
f 10
1/4 second
WB Daylight

Friday Photo #255 – Winter Hiking

winter hiking - Friday Photo #255

Photo: Winter on Volandstind, Flakstadøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. January 13, 2017. 12:19

It is getting to be that time of year in which I’m receiving an increased amount of emails asking if it’s possible to hike such and such mountain on so and so day, what the weather will be, and what gear is needed.

I don’t know.

I will reiterate some things here, but if you are thinking about coming here in winter for some hiking, then you should first read my article:

Winter Hiking on Lofoten

When I get an email about hiking some mountain – and unfortunately, Reinebringein is the most commonly referenced one – I always struggle with what to reply. Should I be blunt, and simply say it’s impossible? Should I give some advice about gear? But if you don’t know what gear to use, then you probably don’t have the proper experience for hiking here in winter. Do I remind people that there is little to no daylight in January? Or do I just say: Sure, everything is possible. Which it is – given the correct experience.

From an email, I don’t know anything about you. Have you hiked before? Have you seen snow before? Do you know how to judge avalanche risk? Can you navigate in a whiteout? Are you going to go hiking in a full storm because you only have 2 days on Lofoten and need that photo for Instagram? And a million other things…

So it is more or less an impossible question to answer: If _you_ can hike something.

There are some relatively easy mountains during winter on Lofoten. The locals are out all year round and the same with myself. However, as a whole, Lofoten in winter is not for the inexperienced and the mountains here need to be respected.

Camera Info:
Nikon D800
Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8
27mm
ISO 400
f 10
1/50 second
WB Daylight

Friday Photo #254 – Isolated

landslide - Friday Photo #254

Photo: Large rock-slide blocks the road to Myrland, Flakstadøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. November 17, 2017. 12:14

Thursday evening sometime between 20:00 and 22:00 nature send a reminder of who is in charge. A friend and come over for a short visit to checkup on a project we are working on, leaving after a couple hours. But soon I heard a knock on my door and she had come back, saying there were some rocks in the road. There had been a large rock in the road earlier in the day, but it had been cleared, so maybe she though it was just the darkness that made it look like more. So we hopped in my van to check things out.

Approaching the scene in the darkness, my headlamps lit up the first initially small boulders – which hadn’t been there when I passed by in the late afternoon, before illuminating large blocks in the distance, completely covering the road. Hmm, no one is getting by that this night…

In the morning I returned to checkout the scene again. It was indeed the largest rockslide I’ve seen since moving here. As information spread, I was interviewed by the news agency NRK, and we began to find out that my little village, of merely a dozen residents, would be cut off for a while – The original estimate of a Saturday opening being extended to Monday.

And so I sit at home, with unexpected guests and glad I generally keep enough food on the shelves for just this type of situation. Saturday I will miss an event I was hoping to attend, but that is life up here…

As a bit of a side note. Despite the fact that there are clearly posted ‘no stopping’ (not just the ‘no parking’) and rockfall signs for this section of the road, many people car/van/motorhome camp along there all summer long. If it is not too late in the evening and I see people out and about, I will often stop and give them a bit of a warning that they might not be in the best place. On any given night it is not likely that something will happen, and it makes me feel like an asshole, possibly interrupting some romantic moment or ruining their perfect camping spot with the midnight sun shining in the north. But I drive this road on an almost daily basis and see what falls from above. It would be nice if people listened the signs, but they don’t. So I’ll probably have to be an asshole next summer as well, telling people that they should move along…

And in fact, along with some friends, I remember telling a van to move which was parked in this exact spot of the avalanche sometime in July. The amount of fresh small rockfall and debris present there should have already indicated that it was a poor camping location. Had they been there this Thursday evening, they would now be buried under tons of rubble.

Camera Info:
Nikon D800
Nikon 70-200mm f/4
200mm
ISO 320
f 5
1/125 second
WB Daylight

Friday Photo #253 – Winter’s Arrival

Winter's Arrival - Friday Photo #253

Photo: Winter arrives in the north, Vestvågøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. October 29, 2017. 14:55

It is hard to say exactly – when autumn ends and winter begins. Every year is slightly different, but usually sometime in the end of October or early november as the days grow darker that the weather becomes darker as well. This year autumn seems to have held on as long as possible. Yet, there is no escaping the arrival of winter here.

The weather of the weeks has now made that turn. Winter is here. I’m not as eager to go outside anymore – I actually haven’t done any hiking in several weeks – good I joined the Gym! Any thoughts of long nights alone in my tent are easily chased from my mind.

Winter does not have a single look, it is more of a mood and a feeling. Dark days and stormy nights. Wind and snow blowing sideways across your face. Running from the parking lot into the supermarket. And sleep, lots of sleep.

It likely wont be until after the new year that there is enough snow for me to pull out my skis. And even then, it is a fine balance between snow or rain.

Camera Info:
Nikon D800
Nikon 70-200mm f/4
180mm
ISO 250
f 5
1/160 seconds
WB Daylight

Friday Photo #225 – Mannen

Mannen Sunset - Friday Photo #225

Photo: Summit of Mannen (791m) at sunset, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. April 16, 2017. 20:04

My body still recovering after only half a day of rest from the first 4 days of my Easter adventures in west Lofoten, I found myself back in the parking lot at Å once again, with a new mountain in sight, and luckily, a light backpack this time! We were just going for a day trip…

Leaving around noon, we made good time to the end of Ågvatnet before putting on crampons and pulling out the ice tools for the 500 meter ascent of the couloir to the east of Mannen. Unlike the previous days, the snow was now firm and settled. Front pointing our way up, we made quick progress the the pass. I was confident that we’d be back to the car and I would be home in time for dinner – I was home for dinner, but not at a time I would have imagined!

One on the upper, north side of the mountain, there were many icy passages. We could have traversed out to the right and climbed up a gully towards a lower part of the ridge. But I, in my great wisdom, thought it would be funner just to go up the northern side of the ridge. So out came the ropes and we began to ascend.

Route finding was difficult, and progress was slow. 8 hours after leaving the parking lot I arrived at the summit cairn; the sun glowing orange just above the sea and a cold wind blowing across the high peak.

The sun had set by the time we began our descent, down the steep, sometimes icy gullies that we had originally though about ascending – it sure would have been quicker! There was some amazing light at times, but I was more focused on getting down safely, so my camera was stored in my backpack, out of reach.

It was almost midnight by the time we returned to my van. Utterly excused, but still exhilarated from an amazing day in the mountains. I could hardly get out of bed Monday morning, my body absolutely crushed.

Camera Info:
Nikon D800
Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8
15mm
ISO 160
f 7.1
1/500 second
WB Daylight

Friday Photo #224 – Easter Camping

Easter Camping - Friday Photo #225

Photo: Room with a view, Ågskaret, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. April 12, 2017. 20:16

Last week was the Easter holidays here in Norway – and in Norway, that means going outside and doing stuff, or sitting in your mountain cabin. Since I don’t yet own a cabin, my tent would have to do. Luckily, the holiday also coincided with near perfect weather on Lofoten – at least sun, the wind would become a menace a few days later.

Wednesday afternoon, we headed around lake Ågvatnet and up the pass towards Stokkvika. Our plans were ambitious, a high mountain on the western edge of Lofoten that would take us 2 1/2 days to reach; all while carrying heavy packs of climbing gear through the deep snow. Trusting the forecast, we didn’t push the pace to fast.

As we arrived at the pass at Ågskaret, we weren’t quite ready to stop, but it was evident that the next place to camp would probably be further than we wanted to go. Luckily, there was a wide enough area on the ridge, that after a bit of digging and levelling, became the perfect spot for a tent.

The weather was fantastic and we got to melt snow and cook dinner in the sun until it finally sank into a layer of clouds. The mountains full of snow but the days are so long. I really love this time of year here in the north – perfect for cold adventures…

Camera Info:
Nikon D800
Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8
14mm
ISO 2100
f 8
1/125 second
WB Daylight

Friday Photo #223 – Night Hiking

NIght Hiking - Friday Photo #223

Photo: Almost midnight hiking above Vindstad, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. April 7, 2017. 23:41

The Friday evening ferry doesn’t leave Reine until 21:30. And even though it feels like spring and the midnight sun is just around the corner, winter and darkness are still fighting to keep hold over Lofoten. So when you don’t start hiking until nearly 22:00 at night, it is best to bring a headlamp along, even with a mostly full moon!

The snow was deep and route finding difficult, especially as waves of snow passed over us, reducing the already limited visibility. We only had 500 meters to ascend to where we would make camp on the pass, but this took over 2 hours of effort. I don’t think I finally zipped up my sleeping bag until just before 01:00.

Camera Info:
Nikon D800
Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8
14mm
ISO 2000
f 3.2
.3 second
WB Daylight

Friday Photo #222 – Matmora Winter

Matmora Winter - Friday Photo #222

Photo: Winter on Matmora, Austvågøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. March 19, 2017. 10:33

Friday took me east to Solvær, first for a presentation by Tormod Granheim on climbing on 4000m peaks in the Alps, and then, on Saturday, an avalanche course up on Vesterålen. After the course ended in mid afternoon, we caught the ferry back to Lofoten with more adventures in mind: Matmora.

The sun was setting as we left the parking lot and headed up through the deep snow. Eventually, after some hours we cleared the trees and arrived on the flat northern ridge with leads to Matmora. In the darkness we setup camp and waited for what the morning would bring.

I was hoping for some nice pink light, but dawn broke flat and grey. Tired, I didn’t crawl out of my sleeping bag until after 8:00. Soon, we were under way through the deep snow to Delpheia and then up the ever steepening and narrowing ridge.

The weather continued to mostly deteriorate, and whatever clear moments became shorter and shorter before the passing slow flurries and sinking clouds. Had the weather been better, I might have had more motivation to reach the summit. But on this day, it was just step by step, continuing on and on. It wasn’t until the summit cairn appeared like a ghost in the fog that I was confident that we would reach the summit, and even then, I though, ‘what’s the point, I can’t see anything…’

This image is on the descent from Delpheia just before the route begins to climb again. The summit is visible in the distance, hidden in the clouds and still a couple hours away.

Camera Info:
Nikon D800
Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8
14mm
ISO 160
f 8
1/500 seconds
WB Daylight

Friday Photo #221 – Skjelfjord Aurora

Skjelfjord Aurora - Friday Photo #221

Photo: Northern Lights over Skjelfjord, Flakstadøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. January 31, 2017. 22:56

Today is the last day of March, and with that, soon it will be the end of the aurora season here on Lofoten. Though there are still a couple weeks left, so don’t fear, if you just arrived!

Each day, the sun continues its journey to the north, the days growing by around 1 hour per week. And with the clocks having changed last weekend, I found myself driving home at dusk last night, only to look at my watch as see that it was almost 9:00 pm! And I hadn’t had dinner yet…

For photography, the days are getting long if you want sunrise, sunset, and northern lights all in the same day. However for life here in the north, it is perfect! The mountains are covered in snow and there is enough time to get up some pretty decent peaks during the week for those with normal working hours.

Back to the photo. I saw the aurora out my window, which from my house in Skjelfjord, doesn’t happen all that often due to the high mountains surrounding me. I headed out to drive around a little, but the aurora was glowing in a way that it filled almost the entire sky, and almost looked fake really – like I had just turned some clouds green in Photoshop! So I wasn’t really happy with anything I captured, until I drove home and parked in my driveway.

The aurora was beginning to increase a bit again, and with the fjord perfectly calm, the reflections were nice. So I walked over to a small jetty near my house and shot for a while. The lack of moonlight meant light pollution was something of an issue. But luckily the aurora was strong enough to overpower most of it, keeping the mountains greenish instead of mercury-lamp orange.

And the same as the aurora season is soon ending, so will my view of these mountains. I have exciting news that I will write about late.

Camera Info:
Nikon D800
Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8
14mm
ISO 1600
f 3.2
8 seconds
WB Daylight

Friday Photo #220 – Unstad Twilight

Kleivheia - Friday Photo #220

Photo: Twilight view over Unstad beach, Vestvågøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. March 3, 2017. 17:45

The original plan had been to head to another mountain on skis, but as we approached the route, there was far to little snow, so we headed for plan b, Kleivheia. The sun was already sinking into the horizon as we were halfway up the steep couloir, slowed by deep snow and some issues with my knee, which I injured skiing a couple weeks earlier. But the weather was too good to stay out of the mountains and rest, as I probably should have!

Arriving at the summit plateau, a fresh breeze was blowing and the sky was now filled with a beautiful winter twilight. Perfect! I stayed around and shot some images as the sky darkened and the village lights below became more prominent.

Then it was off to find a flat place for camp, not that easy of a task! And begin the wait for aurora, which would be filling the sky a few hours later.

Camera Info:
Nikon D800
Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8
19mm
ISO 100
f 10
.5 second
WB Daylight