Photo: Evening view over Unstad beach, Vestvågøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. May 29, 2022. 22:29

With no darkness for the next 2 months, May is the beginning of my midnight sun hiking season. I typically don’t camp too much at this time of year unless I’m heading to a more distant location. Otherwise, I find it easier just to pick a location, start walking, then return home sometime in the early morning hours. And then hope my neighbour doesn’t knock on my door at 09:00!

This evening I actually had no plan. First I headed up Saupstadtind, then over to (lower) Skrådalstind, and then I just wandered along winding sheep trails until I was over Unstad. I’ve hiked the mountains in the background of the image numerous times, but this was my first time on this side of the valley. And I think overall, this is an infrequently visited part of Lofoten. I attempted a bit of a shortcut on the way down, but it turned into something of a bushwhack at times.

With June just a few days away in this image, you can see the difference between the already green fields of the valley vs. the still relatively brown mountains rising above. The transition from winter to spring to summer is a gradual process on Lofoten; beginning at sea level and then rising higher up the mountains as time passes.

This image also shows the difference between Innmark, the green fields, and utmark, the mountains rising above. This is important in the regulations of Allemannsretten, which most people just think of as, ‘it’s free to camp where you want in Norway.’ This actually only applies to utmark. Though it is generally tolerated in many roadside areas and beaches, even if they are innmark. However, for Lofoten specifically, the increased pressure of tourism has seen more regulations and controls put in place in recent years. And there are even some calling for an end to Allemannsretten in the utmark. Only time will tell if these old traditions and freedoms still have a place in the modern world. But if everyone is respectful of the landscape, hopefully future generations can still enjoy the right to roam!

Head over to my Instagram account for (almost) daily postings of the local conditions here on Lofoten: @distant.north

Camera Info:
Nikon Z7 II
Nikon 14-30mm f/4
21mm
ISO 100
f 8
1/60 Second
WB Daylight

Photo: Common Gull swoops in for attack, Flakstadøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. May 31, 2021. 21:53

With summer just around the corner, many of Lofoten’s migratory birds will have chosen their nesting sites and begin laying eggs. In my valley, I can already see dozens of pairs of mostly common gulls spread out across the moorland. Every once in a while when something passes through, they will scatter to the sky in a flurry of noise and commotion.

Most of the migratory bird species on Lofoten are ground nesting: the various gull types, arctic skuas, oystercatchers, curlews, geese, and more. The result is the parents can have various levels of aggression when one passes too closely – particularly the arctic skuas, which might actually physically contact you, while most of the others just do a near flyby.

If you are just passing though an area, then there is not too much to be done, but do keep an eye out of where you are walking to hopefully avoid stepping on a nest full of eggs. The most common nesting areas are in the wild, coastal heather terrain which offers plenty of cover. But not all birds are this smart, and if you’re walking around the villages in late June, its likely you’ll see fresh chicks walking around the sidewalks and harbours at times.

If you are camping however, it is best that you pay attention to any annoyed birds. Camping too close to a nest will cause the parents to keep away, which might cause the eggs never to hatch, or, allow predators like stoats to approach and eat them. I’ve seen a few abandoned nests, still with eggs, in areas where it was obvious people had been frequently camping over the summer.

Just something to keep in mind while out enjoying Lofoten’s nature.

Head over to my Instagram account for (almost) daily postings of the local conditions here on Lofoten: @distant.north

Camera Info:
Nikon D850
Nikon 70-200mm f/4
135mm
ISO 400
f 4.5
1/800 Second
WB Daylight

Photo: Mountain birch tree in grey clouds on Haugheia, May 10, 2023. 14:53

May is usually the start of sunset-to-sunrise season of Lofoten, and I had actually already written an article about that for this weeks post. However, May this year has been on the grey side and there hasn’t been too much in the way of colourful nights lately. Even when the sky has been clear overhead, there’s oven been a layer of cloud over the northern horizon, which largely blocks any color which might occur.

The last few days have actually felt like cold summer days, with a mild temperature around 10˚c, still air, and low, misty clouds concealing the peaks. Even on a Wednesday hike up the low ridge of Haugheia for a bit of exercise, clouds were blowing across the summit forest leaving me wanting around in a sea of grey. Although for the wind twisted mountain birch grove at the summit, I actually like this type of low visibility and it removes the distractions of the background or sky and allows more of an emphasis on the shapes of the trees. Even better is when this occurs in winter.

I only shot a couple images on this hike as I often prefer the shoot the trees from a low vantage point, but the flip screen on my camera stopped working a couple months ago, and I’m too lazy to otherwise have to lie on the ground for some trees I’ve already shot dozens of times. One difficulty with living in Lofoten is that any sort of equipment repair takes a long time! So I would like to fix my camera soon, but I also can’t be without one for a month or more in the height of summer…

Head over to my Instagram account for (almost) daily postings of the local conditions here on Lofoten: @distant.north

Camera Info:
Nikon Z7 II
Nikon 24-120 f/4
110mm
ISO 100
f 8
1/250 Second
WB Daylight

Photo: Dark clouds over Bulitind from Smordalskammen, Vestvågøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. May 1, 2023. 16:36

It is that time of year that locals often call false spring, winter part 3-4-5, the May summer tire club, and various other jokes about the weather. After a few ‘warm’ days in April it’s easy to think that the trend will continue. But almost reliably, the the temperature will drop as winter fights to hold on a little longer. This last week has been a perfect example of that weather as the wind shifted north and snow flurries have been passing over the islands, with Wednesday’s temperature dropping down to -4.8˚c and leaving my backyard and surrounding fields with a layer of snow.

Once the sun returns however, the snow quickly melts until the next wave of snow passes. Winter takes over the shadows while the sun brings spring. But overall, the snow is slowly melting away and the coastal farmlands are beginning to turn green. I kinda lost track of time a bit this week noticing a few flowers on the side of the road and thinking it was an early spring. Until I remember that it was already a few days into May! So the pace of ‘the greenening’ (not a real word, but sounds cool) of the land seems normal this year.

On a May day hike in the cold blustery wind on Smordalskammen a small recent dusting of snow survived in a few places while in more exposed areas it had melted, creating these cool patterns across the land. The sun was high over Bulitind, but luckily the clouds concealed it from time to time for a slightly more balanced image.

Loosing track of time again while planning where to hike today, I suddenly realised that sunset is now at 22:20. I always find it hard to image that it’s still snowing but the days are already longer than midsummer in Berlin or London, for example. Winter weather but summer light. The midnight sun is now only 3 weeks away!

Head over to my Instagram account for (almost) daily postings of the local conditions here on Lofoten: @distant.north

Camera Info:
Nikon Z7 II
Nikon 14-30mm f/4
14mm
ISO 100
f 8
1/1000 Second
WB Daylight