Photo: Colorful summer sunrise over Nappstraumen, Lofoten Islands, Norway. August 8, 2024. 03:54
Lofoten has had a fantastic start to August this year with a late summer heat wave bringing 20˚+ temperatures and blue skies since last Saturday. Added to an already above average summer, I think this year I have spent more time at the beach than all previous years combined! Although I am deep into some house renovation projects, so I’m not able to get away from the house for too long at the moment anyhow, and a nice float in the cold sea is calming after a day of painting, sanding, sawing, and hammering. I should have chosen a rainy summer for house work, as I am missing some nice mountain weather. But maybe its too hot to hike anyhow…
The weather will now be changing back to more ‘normal’ patterns as things look to cool down finally. Some clouds, some wind, some rain, some sun, that is what the next week is looking like, with that growing sense that autumn is not so far away anymore.
For the majority of the last week though, the sun has just gently sunk into the sea in a cloudless sky while the light just fades away. A bit boring, but in a good way. Especially when your stove is disconnected and your only dinner option is late night barbecue.
This photo from the early hours of Thursday morning was the first colorful cloud filled sky that I’ve seen in a couple weeks. With the electricians showing up at 08:00, shooting out my office window was as much effort as I could give.
Camera Info: Nikon Z8 Nikon 24-120mm f/4 53mm ISO 100 f 8 1/40 Second WB Daylight
Photo: Twilight moon over Himmeltindan, Vestvågøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. July 28: 23:11
It has only been a couple short weeks since the midnight sun has left Lofoten’s sky and I can already sense the change in the air as this year’s wonderful summer will soon begin its departure. On a couple of the cloudier nights of this past week I’ve already needed to turn on the lights in my house a few times. By Now, the sun is below the horizon for 4.5 hours while a soft twilight glow fills the northern sky. It is only 3 weeks until the return of the northern lights. Time flies.
I can’t remember the last time I saw the moon. It has probably been around, but I generally don’t pay much attention to it during the summer. Then on this evening, I just kinda noticed it in the twilight sky over the mountains of Veggen and Himmeltindan. Despite the good weather, I’ve barely touched my camera in the last weeks as my time is consumed with long overdue house maintenance. Luckily it only takes me a minute to take a photo out the window. And so here we have a quarter moon in the twilight sky of late July.
Unknowingly at the time, and almost the photo for today, this scene would become a little more tragic on the following day when a humpback whale became stuck in fishing nets in Nappstraumen. It took over 24 hours before the coastguard arrived to make a rescue effort to free the whale. Which they did. And then decided the whale had become too exhausted and injured from its 24 hours stuck in the nets, so they killed it later in the evening. The mountains as witnesses.
Camera Info: Nikon Z8 Nikon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 160mm ISO 100 f 7.1 1/50 Second WB Daylight
Photo: Bags of trash left in open at parking near popular beach area, Flakstadøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. July 20, 2024. 17:15
This is one of those articles which I don’t like to, and shouldn’t have to write. But I unfortunately do.
It is peak tourists season on Lofoten here in late July and the streets are full of traffic and in the evenings it seems every possible roadside pullout is filled with motorhomes and camper vans participating in Norway’s generous camping laws. This summer will likely be the busiest ever on Lofoten, and the pressure among the local community can be felt. While there are always the usual summer ‘tourist chaos’ articles in the local newspapers, the intensity, and frustration among a small, but vocal portion of the local population seems quite high this year.
Much of the frustration stems from the failures of the Norwegian government to adequately deal with the increase in tourism – increases that the government itself has promoted. There is no tourist tax of any sort in Norway. Lofoten was supposed to be a trail program of some sort, but so far nothing has been implemented. This leaves small municipalities of 1000 people to more or less fend for themselves and supply the infrastructure for 1 million visitors. Moskenes municipally is one of the poorest in Norway and has been on a special government oversight list for more than a decade. Norway might be rich, but Lofoten isn’t.
The same applies to the roads and tunnels of Lofoten. The E10 might be an European motorway, but much of it feels like some small country road in the middle of nowhere that receives little traffic. Already this summer there have been multiple car crashes (and fatalities), in which the poor standard of Lofoten’s roads are likely a contributing factor. In the Nappstraumen tunnel which I pass through almost daily, I regularly see glass and plastic in the roadway from vehicles hitting their mirrors together – and last summer I was even directly behind one such incident which sent glass flying all over my van.
I could go on and on with the reasons the local population feels frustrated. But now I will switch to when I get annoyed: laziness and self entitlement.
Road trips in my van or a rented van is my preferred way to travel. I regularly travel around northern Norway and have made several (rental) van trips to Scotland over the last years. I reference Scotland, because it too has similar ‘right to roam’ laws as Norway’s Allemannsretten.
One thing I would never think of doing is just leaving my trash on the side of the road in some isolated area. And as much as possible I attempt to dispose of any garbage in convent area for the local services, and not some hard to reach location where trash collection might be infrequent. If I had enough room to carry the trash to a location, I have enough room to take it back to where it was purchased.
The picture here is what ended up being left in at the parking for Myrland beach over the course of a week or so. Inside was packaging from Germany and Sweden (and Norway). If you can carry a water bottle and tin of beans 3000km from Germany, it can be taken a few more kilometres down the road to the nearest trash bin. This is pure laziness and selfishness. You have camped for free in a beautiful location, and then just leave a bag of trash for someone else to deal with. WTF!
The people who left the trash here will likely never read this or even care. Nothing can get in the way of their convenience and laziness. But many such situations happen daily on Lofoten. And the local population is becoming frustrated. I will not be surprised if there is a total ban on van/motorhome camping implemented within the next few years, ruining the ‘wild’ Lofoten experience for all future people, just because a few inconsiderate people have been too lazy to take away their own trash…
Please enjoy your free camping in beautiful Lofoten. But don’t expect me or my neighbours to clean up after you. Leaving no trace is a key part of the freedom of Allemannsretten. If you are leaving trash, then you are abusing Norway’s generosity.
Camera Info: Nikon Z8 Nikon 24-120mm f/4 31mm ISO 100 f 6.3 1/640 Second WB Daylight
Photo: Looking across a sea of fog concealing the village of Napp, Flakstadøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. July 17, 2024. 00:52
It has been hot the last days here on Lofoten with full days of sunshine and blue skies. The other day on the way to hike Skottind I ended up in a conversation with one of the nearby residents who said this has been the best summer since 1955! I’m not sure how true that is, though it has definitely been above average in my opinion. But…
As I wrote a few weeks back in Friday Photo #599, there is one thing that the weather forecasting doesn’t account well for – the nightly fog monster which envelops the lower elevations on Lofoten’s northern coast. So while the weather forecasts is accurate of Leknes and other areas that avoid the fog – hot sunny days can always be a bit risky on the northern coast.
I was planning on posting a nice image of one of the last nights of midnight sun taken earlier on this evening, but I think this image is a good example to show how much difference just a little bit of elevation can make – the fog here is concealing everything below 150m or so.
This whole evening it had been t-shirt weather as I was photographing up in the mountains of Flakstadøy. Below me though, I could see the fog concealing the landscape and blocking out any views of the midnight sun for the many people camped at Storsandnes beach as I drove by earlier in the evening.
On my way back home, the route descended into the fog you see here. The temperature dropped immediately as I entered into the mist and visibility was limited to 20 meters or so. Quite a contrast from a sunny, perfect summer evening in the mountains.
If I was camping, I would have much rather been up in the mountain sunlight than in the cold fog down on the beach.
Camera Info: Nikon Z8 Nikon 24-120mm f/4 44mm ISO 100 f 8 1/8 Second WB Daylight
https://www.68north.com/content/2024/07/friday-photo-602-sea-of-fog.jpg10001500Codyhttps://www.68north.com/content/2016/12/68north-logo-V4.pngCody2024-07-19 05:24:252024-07-19 06:52:04Friday Photo #602 – A Sea Of Fog
Photo: Midnight sun illuminates the sky over the northern horizon, Flakstadøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. July 11, 2024. 01:00
The midnight sun is getting noticeably lower on the northern horizon and by next week it will once again touch the sea for the first time since May. And while the atmosphere of the seemly endless days will soon be gone, that is a good thing, as the next ‘season’ arrives on Lofoten: Sunset season.
Late July and into early August is when the sun just below the northern horizon during the midnight hours. If the weather cooperates, this is then the time of hours long, all night sunsets. Light for photographers which is far better than the midnight sun itself – which is more similar to a several hour long golden hour light. But it late July, the fiery sunsets arrive, where the sky glows for hours and hours while most of the world is sleeping.
One of the unique things about Lofoten, and the arctic in general, is that the sun is above the horizon all 360˚ of the compass. This also means that the sun rises and sets on all 360˚ of the compass. In other words, depending on the time of year, you can have the sun rising or setting in any location you want in the landscape. For a landscape and mountain photographer, this is useful for having nice light on certain mountains, no matter their orientation – you just need to calculate and plan ahead for where you wan the sun to set. So for many locations on the northern side of Lofoten, the coming weeks will be some of the best time for photography before the sun then travels too far south in the sky.
Camera Info: Nikon Z8 Nikon 24-120mm f/4 59mm ISO 100 f 8 1/250 Second WB Daylight
Photo: Summer wildflowers glow in the endless light of the midnight sun, Myrland, Flakstadøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. July 2, 2023. 02:13
Friday Photo #600. That is a lot of articles about a small set of islands on the edge of the world. I’m not even sure myself how I have managed so many words about Lofoten. At times I have thought about slowing down or even giving up, but I know once I do, then life will bring too many other distractions. And missing one week will become two, then a month, then six months… So forcing myself to post once a week still seems like the best option at the moment. So next week will be Friday Photo #601.
July means summer season is in high gear here on Lofoten and the rest of Norway. The nights are still endless as the midnight sun remains in the sky for another few weeks, with then leads into one of my favourite times of the year – the twilight nights.
Again this week is photo from last year, on a nice July evening. I’ve, fortunately or unfortunately, continued my absence from home during the last week as I was guiding a midnight sun photo workshop exploring the Helgeland coast and Islands south of Bodø. After that, I’ve mostly been stuck in front of the computer, despite some nice light and weather outside the windows.
Looking for which image to post this week, I was looking for something from the first week of July anytime in the last couple years. And for whatever reason, I seem to take more or less a similar image to this every year in early July. I guess it’s just the way the light and the flowers happen to be at this time of year as I wander around the neighbourhood in the early morning hours. Or maybe I’m always looking to show how nice summer is at this time of year. I don’t know, but I found it sort of interesting.
Camera Info: Nikon Z8 Nikon 24-120mm f/4 46mm ISO 100 f 5.6 1/200 Second WB Daylight
Photo: Misty grey summer weather over flowery meadow on Yttersia – northern coast of Flakstadøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. June 16, 2024. 18:24
This week it is another photo of less than ideal summer weather – a misty grey, light fog, cloaking the landscape and hiding the mountains and sun. However, more important to the story here is location. Just 2km down the road and further from there was a fantastically sunny summer day. Two completely different experiences just a couple km apart from each other.
This particular day was one of the more common types of weather conditions to be experienced on Lofoten during the summer – sea fog. Typically, the fog blows in from the north on otherwise completely clear sunny days. So the northern side of Lofoten can be rather grim and dark, while just heading over to the inner side of Lofoten will often be full of sunshine.
The weather forecasts don’t account well for the summer fog, especially a light version like this, and especially for the high amounts of local variation possible. But one sign of possible northern fog or mist risk is a fully sunny and cloudless forecast for a location like Leknes or Svolvær, in combination with a light northern wind of 4-7 m/s or so. Any other wind direction will typically keep the fog out to sea. So If I’m looking at the weather forecast and see full sun but a north wind, I’ll probably be cautious about making any plans for the yttersia – north side of Lofoten, which, unfortunately, is where most of the nicest beaches and many of my favourite hikes are.
Camera Info: Nikon Z8 Nikon 24-120mm f/4 24mm ISO 100 f 5.6 1/320 Second WB Daylight
Photo: Midsummer midnight sun over the sea, Lofoten Islands, Norway. June 20, 2024. 00:00
Yesterday was the summer solstice and the sun’s highest low point over the northern horizon for the year. From now on the days get shorter – although that won’t really be noticeable until the sun finally sets into the sea in mid July. The transition from the end of winter to the arrival of the summer green is so long up here in the north, by midsummer, the actual start of summer, it already feels like autumn is not too far away.
But while the sun may have begun its journey south, thousands of tourists are speeding north in what is already looking like will be the busiest summer ever on Lofoten. In locations where they measure hiking traffic, like Reinebringen, there has already been over 40,000 hikers on the mountain so far this year. And with the tourism season not even in full swing yet, it will probably well surpass last year’s numbers of 215,000 visits, and 160,000 in 2022. It’s a good thing they finally finished the stairs!
But even among the busy roads and thousands of daily hikers on the popular handful of mountains, there still remains the quiet and hidden peaks. Trail-less mountains where one can sit in silence and enjoy the sun floating over the northern sea as if you are the only person in the world. This is where I will mostly be this summer – or BBQing in my backyard.
You may have noticed that I’ve been posting mostly older photos recently, while in general I try to keep these ‘Friday Photo’ posts more of a running journal of recent happenings or info. Most of the reason for this is that I’ve only actually been in my own house about 3 weeks total this year. After a long winter workshop season, I immediately departed for and overdue visit back to California, which then was immediately followed by a trip to Scotland – mostly chasing puffins on Orkney and Shettland – but more on that later. So, now I’m finally looking forward to a bit more time and home and hopefully I don’t have to go near an airport until sometime in the autumn.
Camera Info: Nikon Z8 Nikon 24-120 f/4 24mm ISO 100 f 8 1/640 Second WB Daylight
Photo: Rain heavy clouds fill the midnight sky over mountains of west Lofoten. June 7, 2021. 0042
Last week (Friday Photo #596) I wrote about the endless light of summer’s midnight sun. But that was only part of the story. The endless light is the dream, but not always the reality. And while yes, the sun will be above the horizon the entire month on June, it is not always present in the landscape.
This evening I was looking at a mixed forecast with an eventually passing couple hours of rain. I took a gamble with the forecast and headed up to an isolated mountain ridge to camp for the night. While I got some decent photos, the weather ended up a bit heavier than expected, so I never got much light. If I would have sat the evening in my garden, it probably would have been one of those sky on fire sunsets. The weather forecast for either event basically looks the same, but you never know what will actually happen until it does. In which case, hopefully you have chosen the mountains over a bbq.
Camera Info: Nikon Z7 II Nikon 14-30mm f/4 18mm ISO 100 f 8 1/10 Second WB Daylight
Photo: Mountains of Vestvågøy rise from a shimmering night sea, Lofoten Islands, Norway. June 4, 2021. 01:57
Two weeks into the midnight sun season and Lofoten is bathed in 24 hour sunlight. And the days only get bright over the following two weeks until the summer solstice on June 20th. By now I will be almost completely ‘nocturnal’ as I stay up late into the morning hours with the sun drifting over the sea to the north. This view is from my house on one of those late mornings. How can I ever sleep?
I like the northern lights well enough, but rarely will I stay up past midnight exclusively for them. And the same goes for any other light on Lofoten – except for the midnight sun season. For me, the midnight sun is the highlight of the year living on Lofoten. Without it, I couldn’t live here.
Photographically, the midnight sun is rarely the best light. But it is the best time simply to be here and experience the slowness, if not stopping, of time for a few short, but precious weeks.
Camera Info: Nikon Z7 II Nikon 24-200mm f/4-6.3 200mm ISO 320 f 6.3 1/640 Second WB Daylight
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