Cod Stockfish hang to dry in cold winter air, Toppøya, Reine, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo:  Winter sunrise and empty cod racks, Toppøy, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  February 3, 2014.  09:20

My second morning on Lofoten and the wind was screaming in from the south, cold and bitter; I had not quite gotten used to the north yet, having been in t-shirt and shorts just a few days earlier in California.

There was a clear spot on the horizon where the sun should rise, but it was racing a huge rain cloud blowing in across the fjord.  In near perfect unison, they met in a 2 minute flash of light, sky glowing bright orange and pink as heavy drops of rain began falling from the sky.

I was beginning to run for shelter but turned around for one last image, before my camera and lens became completely soaked (it was that super heavy, big drops type of rain).  Not an ideal composition, but about all I could manage given the conditions.  And something different from what I usually seem to photograph.

Camera Info:
Nikon D800
Nikon 85mm f/2.8 tilt-shift
85mm
ISO 250
f 5.6
1/30 second
WB Daylight

Lake Agvatnet in winter, Moskenesoy, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo:  Patterns of snow on lake Ågvatnet, Å I Lofoten, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  February 2, 2014.  15:27

I had been following the on Lofoten for the months before my travels at the beginning of February and knew the islands where having a ‘dry’ winter.  This first was evident as I walked the cold, windy streets of Bodø from the airport to a friends house.  Usually it is a perilous and slippery journey along icy sidewalks and streets, yet now I found only blowing circles of dust on the midnight roads.

So it was a surprise for me when I woke up expecting to see the first glow of dawn on the horizon, only to find my car enveloped by swirling snow and the world beyond the reach of my headlamp a deep black.  I drove the winter roads, parked at some beach and waited in darkness until the storm began to pass and black turned to grey before turning to deep blue.

As afternoon arrived I made my way to the end of the road at Å, Normally a good location for winter sunsets.  Waiting for the light to improve I hesitantly wandered out onto the frozen lake Ågvatnet.  A few locals were out and about on their afternoon walks, so I figured it should be fine, and the ice was quite thick.  Still, it makes some interesting noises while you stand out there.

The morning’s snow had blown into some interesting looking patterns, giving a nice contrast to the nearly black ice of the lake.  And in somewhat flat, fading light of late afternoon in February, I searched for some interesting elements.

As much as I like this image, I do feel it a bit imbalanced.  I would have liked to go with a square crop, but that caused me to loose too much of the cloud in the sky, which I think is important to the image.  So I decided on a 4×4 crop, to give a little more space in the sky.  But this leaves the image a bit centred I think, my eye not quite sure where to go first and not as drawn into the scene as I would like.

One of the difficulties of using multiple exposures with a tilt-shift lens to achieve square or panoramic images is that you never can see the overall composition as you are shooting.  I do my best to estimate where the horizon will land one I combine the images and I often shoot a bit extra to give myself room to crop down, either from the top or bottom, but there are times like this where keeping the full image seems to work better.

Do you see an animal in the cloud?

Camera Info:
Nikon D800
Nikon 24mm f/3.5 tilt-shift
24mm
ISO 50
f 16
45 seconds
WB Daylight
3 images – top, middle, bottom
6 stop B+W neutral density filter

Northern Lights - Aurora Borealis shine in sky over Olstind mountain peak and fjord near Reine, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo:  Northern Lights shine in sky over Olstind, Valen, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  February 11, 2014.  23:04

For anyone who as seen the Northern Lights, I don’t think I need to explain why I have a growing fascination with them.  It is almost like a drug, the more I see, the more I want.  In my earlier winter travels to Lofoten, I thought of them as an added bonus to the already spectacular landscape that I was there to photograph.  Now I think of the lights as a key part of any photography tour of the islands, and I begin to grow impatient after too many cloudy nights.

I try and photography the Northern Lights as an element of an overall landscape.  That is to say, I don’t just want the lights themselves, but I want the lights as an element of an overall landscape photograph.  However, living 10,000 km away from Lofoten, and only having precious few weeks on the islands each year, this is easier said than done, and I miss many opportunities in ‘right time, wrong place’ moments.

But always in my mind are a few scenes that I desire to photograph in a particular way.  Northern Lights and Olstind is one of those images.  I have been close to my envisioned image a few times, including this photo, but I don’t think I’ve quite made it yet.

I often think about what it would be like to live in Reine, or anywhere on Lofoten for that matter, and have 180 nights per year to attempt to fulfil my minds images.  Must be magical.  Even if only for a year.  Maybe some day if I’m lucky.

Camera Info:
Nikon D800
Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8
14mm
ISO 1250
f 4.5
20 seconds
WB Daylight

Hamnoy, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo:  Morning at Hamnøy, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  February 14, 2014.  08:46

This is the first image from my recent Lofoten trip.  All in all I was on the islands from February 1 – 15 and February 26 – March 8.  A long trip!  It was an odd, nearly snow-less winter, which was at sometimes somewhat disappointing.  But it was also quite a productive trip for me, and I think the absence of expected conditions lead me to an overall greater diversity in the images I have returned with, a few of which might be some of my strongest images of the islands yet.

But to start, here is an image from the somewhat ‘common’ view point of Hamnøy, taken from the bridge.  For this part of the trip I was traveling with several other photographers from Australia and in a change from my normal accommodation of either the back of my rental car, tent, or hostel at Stamsund, I was treated to the luxury of staying at Eliassen Rorbuer, Located here on Hamnøy.  Meaning, in my laziness, this image was only a short walk from the front door, not bad!

It was also the morning where I was headed out to Bunes beach, and with the late sunrise of mid February, I didn’t have much time to wander away before I had to be in Reine to catch the morning ferry to Vindstad.

You can also see how little snow was present on the islands.  Normally I’m used to some periods of rain during my winter photo tours where the snow line will creep up the mountains a but.  But this year was something new all together!  There seemed to be less snow than my April/May trip last year.  But even with the lack of snow, I still find this a pleasant image.

Camera Info:
Nikon D800
Nikon 24mm f/3.5 tilt-shift
24mm
ISO 100
f 8
20 seconds
WB Daylight
2 images – top, bottom

Snow covered winter landscape, Farstad, Vestvågøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Winter landscape, Vestvågøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  Feb 16, 2013.  14:22

The light on Lofoten is not always magical and quite often you’ll have to make due with much less than ideal conditions. This day in particular had been dull and flat, low clouds casting near contrast-less gray light over the land.  One of those days where I tend to drive in circles looking for something, yet often find nothing.

But Lofoten, particularly in winter, is more than glowing pink mountains and amazing sunsets.  The islands are often bleak, weary, and forlorn.  Skipping these moments means missing out on what the islands really are, while not always visually spectacular, the islands have more depth than the idealized illusion of them which we see posted all across the internet.

Camera Info:
Nikon D800
Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8
34mm
ISO 200
f 11
1/100 sec
WB Daylight
2 images – top, bottom

Ice coveres coastal rocks, Vik Beach, Vik, Vestvågøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Ice covered rocks at Vik beach, Vestvågøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  Feb 16, 2013.  16:40

I’m not quite sure what it is, but I often find myself to focus on certain places on any given trip to Lofoten.  In the past, I have driven past Vik beach quite literally dozens of times, yet never stopped to take a photo.  However in February 2013, I seemed to be photographing at Vik nearly every other day.  I’m not sure if it has anything to do with a particular location being more ‘in condition’ than other areas, or that I’ve just grown weary of other places over the years and look for something new.

Anyhow, while passing Vik on the way to camp at Utakleiv for the night I came across this scene.  It had been cold for several days and a few lights snows had fallen.  Had the ice on the rocks not been present, then I probably would have driven straight by this scene.  And while I feel the balance of the image is a bit off, I like the contrast of the white ice against the blue water, helping to and depth, and cold, to the image.

Camera Info:
Nikon D800
Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8
31mm
ISO 160
f 9
30 sec
WB Daylight
B+W 6 stop ND filter

Derelict Rorbu sits on edge of fjord, Vestvalen, Reine, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Abandoned Rorbu, Vestvalen, near Reine, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  Feb 17, 2017.  17:19

I posted a different version of this building a few months ago.  While I had been familiar with the location for many years, and had shot images from the building, I had never taken any images of the building, until this evening.

The last moments of light combined with low, heavy clouds provided the perfect atmosphere to accompany this abandoned rorbu for a scene that I waited years to come across.  I like to think I have seen everything Lofoten has to offer, but I have come nowhere close! Nearly every moment of every day is different, week after week, month after month, year after year.  I have rarely come across the same conditions in the same place twice.  One of the reason I never get bored with the islands; they are always changing!

While I don’t often tend to shoot architecture, this evening was perfect for this building.  Even to the detail of the mountain emerging from the clouds in the background.  I only had a short amount of time and then the sky opened up for the remainder of the night.

Camera Info:
Nikon D800
Nikon 24mm f/3.5 tilt-shift
24mm
ISO 100
f 8
20 sec
WB Daylight
2 images – top, bottom

Olstind mountain peak rises from fjord, Reine, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Olstind Winter panoramic, near Reine, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  Feb 6, 2012.  16:10

Every time I travel to Lofoten I try and remind myself that I already have enough images of Olstind.  And yet every time I am there, Osltind provides me with something new, whether I want it or not.  And so, like sailers lured by the sirens, I find myself hopping across the rocks on the edge of the fjord, drawn towards Osltind.  The perfect mountain.

This particular day had been calm and cold.  The surface of the fjord began to freeze and the ice made an eerie sound as it gently broke against the rocks a few inches from my feet.  The sky was not quite what I was hoping, and the light a bit flat in the day’s final moments.  But with near perfectly still water, the reflection was perfect.

Camera Info:
Nikon D700
Nikon 24mm f/3.5 tilt-shift
24mm
ISO 200
f 8
.3 sec
WB Daylight
3 images – left, right, middle

Scenic winter view across Kjerkfjorden towards Vindstad, near Reine, Lofoten islands, Norway

Photo: Winter Reflection on Kjerkfjord, near Reine, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  Jan 6, 2010.  13:35

In the short days of early January the sun barely rises above the southern horizon.  If the sky is clear, then several hours of wonderful twilight is what a photographer will be rewarded with.

It is a rare event when all elements align perfectly, but when they do, there is perhaps no better place in the world to be than Lofoten, well, at least for those of us that like winter.

Nearing Reine, the fjord was almost perfectly still and they sky glowed pink.  In the distance, the snow covered mountains between Vindstad and Kjerkfjord reflected in the calm waters.  I knew I had precious little time on this day to get to as many places as possible.  Yet everywhere I looked was something amazing.  If I were able to stop the clock, then this this day could have lasted a full year…

Camera Info:
Nikon D700
Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8
70mm
ISO 200
f 8
1/40 sec
WB Daylight

View from Å towards end of Lofoten, Moskenesøy, Lofoten islands, Norway

Photo: Winter twilight, Å I Lofoten, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  Jan 6, 2010.  15:14

The first day of my January 2010 trip was finally coming to an end as I followed the light to the end of the road at Å I Lofoten.  And from there, proceeded to walk to the edge of the sea where the final glow of the short winter day was still holding onto a bit of life.

This location has become one of my favorite winter sunset spots over the last few years as the between January and early February the sun sets near the end of Lofoten in the distance.  Combined with a multitude of compositions, depending on how good the snow is, or not, it is a location that I usually walk away with something decent from.

Alone, as seemingly at the end of the world, I stayed out here until near darkness, wishing the light would last just a little bit longer.

Camera Info:
Nikon D700
Nikon 24mm f/3.5 tilt-shift
24mm
ISO 100
f 11
20 sec
WB Daylight
2 images – top, bottom