Photo: Kirkefjord clouds, Rostad, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. July 16, 2017. 19:39

The rain was pounding my windshield as I headed west towards Reine. We had made plans to borrow a friend’s boat and to do a bit of exploring in the fjord, but I wasn’t very optimistic.

The rain was still falling as I pulled the boat to shore and figured out how to work everything. Good I brought my rain clothes! From Reine we headed towards Rostad, a small village on the east side of the fjord. Despite all my time on Lofoten, I had never been there before.

We moored the boat at the only empty spot on a small pier. But as we walked towards the village, we met someone on the balcony of a house who informed us that we shouldn’t park there, as another boat was coming. Luckily, our fiend in Reine had told us to say hello to a friend in Rostad, the man we were speaking to. Suddenly it became okay for us to leave the boat, and he could move it if necessary. Good to know the right people!

There are several mountains out of Rostad that have been on my ‘to do’ list for some time. However, as waves of rain still passed us, we decided just for a bit of easy exploring.

Eventually we made out way up to the lake below Segltind, seeing if there might be a possible route of from this side. The hours grow long and it was time to return to Reine. Back in Rostad, The clouds were blowing over the peaks above Kirkefjord. I walked out on some rocks and took a final image for the day.

Camera Info:
Nikon D800
Nikon 24-70mm f/4
62mm
ISO 50
f 16
30 seconds
WB Daylight
10 stop B+W ND filter

Photo: Summer light over Bunes beach from Storskiva, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. July 22, 2017. 22:40

In October last year I made my first attempt to camp on the summit of Storskiva. It didn’t go so well and high winds forced me down from the summit. But I do not give up so easily. And even with dozens of other mountains to hike on Lofoten, a night on Storskiva remained a priority coming into summer 2017.

In late July, a good weekend forecast (for my friends to come along) finally led to the the realisation of a night on the summit.

The original plan had been to go up on Friday night, but a delayed ferry to Vindstad due to the summer crowds, and some other planning issues meant we saved the mountain for Saturday. The forecast wasn’t as reliable, but as things turned out, it was near perfect – for camping that is, the light itself might have been a bit on the boring side.

With no trees or shade in sight, I was cooking under the near 20˚ temperatures and powerful sun. Only carrying 2.5 liters of water, I was on the low side for the temperatures. And I had to setup my tent to have a bit of shade to hide behind throughout the afternoon, which I mostly lazed about and took a bit of a nap.

Finally, in the late evening the sun was approaching the horizon to the north. The light was a bit on the hazy side, but there was a warm glow across the granite peaks of west Lofoten, fading endlessly into the distance.

Bunes itself was quite crowded down below, but up here, there was only 3 of us, with the entire mountain for ourselves. Finally, a bit after midnight and after plenty of wine and whisky, it was time for bed. Maybe in previous years I would have stayed up through the night shooting. But I think I have become a bit spoiled, or perhaps just lazy. I enjoy the moments I have, and when it has been enough, I am content.

Camera Info:
Nikon D800
Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8
20mm
ISO 100
f 10
1/20 second
WB Daylight

Photo: Pile of human faces and toilet paper under a rock on the summit of Ryten, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. July 5, 2017. 22:44

This weeks photo is literally shit, in more ways than one. First, it is a photo from my phone, so apologies for the quality. Second, it is a pile of poop and toilet paper, left in the open save for a small stone placed on top. How nice!

This was a few meters from the summit of Ryten, where I was with a client a couple weeks back. I was looking for a nice steady rock to put my tripod on and then I came across this lovely sight. There were also other areas as well, unfortunately.

This is completely unacceptable mountain behaviour and is not something that should be seen on Lofoten!

I guess this has to be another one of my annual ‘tourists behaving badly’ articles. Unfortunately this year seems even worse than the last.

I am bringing attention to this this week, as in the last days there has been a series of articles about poor behavior from tourists in the local news. See:
NRK article 1
NRK article 2
NRK article 3
NRK article 4

 

With the final one titled: We must turn our marketing away from Lofoten. This is coming from one of Norway’s biggest tourism agencies. A sad state of affairs. But now that the people are here, something needs to be done.

As I now hike the mountains here on a weekly basis, I can see the damage being done. For some trails that I might not have visited for a while, I am shocked at the amount of new erosion and spreading of what might have been a single trail into multiple ways, all attempting to avoid the erosion of the last path. And I myself, and this website, are also part of the problem.

The chief example of this on Lofoten is Reinebringen. The trail has now officially been closed by Moskenes Kommune. But the wording of the signs are unclear, and without proper direction; making it seem more like a suggestion that they hope you listen to. And so hundreds of people still hike this dangerous route daily; just this week there is an article that 7000 people have gone up the supposedly closed mountain in the last month alone. The highest amount of traffic ever.

A friend of mine recently contacted the mayor of Moskenes, suggesting stronger wording might be needed, she was told that the sign was good enough. Well, obviously not!

More funding has been raised to continue work on the trail, but realistically, I would be surprised so see if finished by summer 2020.

Which leads me to the typical situation on Lofoten: There are complaints about too many tourists and not enough facilities, but it always seems up to someone else to find a solution. This is due to a myriad of reasons from funding (the Norwegian government wont allow implementation of any sort of ‘tourist tax’), to who actually has the authority/responsibility to do something.

From the outside world, Lofoten is one place. Lofoten. For Lofoten however, there is Moskenes, Flakstad, Vestvågøy, Austvågøy, Leknes and Svolvær, Statens Vegvessen and private land owners, plus numerous organizations. Often, it seems they try and shift the responsibility of providing any necessary infrastructure onto someone/something else. And so nothing will be done this year, next year, or the decade to come. The nature will be polluted further, tourists will be blamed, and next summer the same articles will appear in the local newspapers and I will type another one of these articles, reminding you to behave properly.

There was supposed to have been an expansion of the parking area at Kvalvika made after lasts years chaos. It wasn’t. They are now attempting to direct visitors the parking area at the school in Fredvang, which is good! However, this is 3.5km down the road from the traditional parking area at Torsfjord, more than doubling the distance of the hike. And so what happens? People still illegally park along the road, same as last summer where I wrote about it in Friday Photo #187.

I saw a comment on Facebook today that someone counted over 60 tents at Kvalvika one night this week. 60 tents is probably around 100 people, just on a single night. All without a toilet! And that is not even counting all the day hikers. No wonder there are piles of shit to be found next to almost every rock and tree. How long can this rate of usage continue on before Kvalvika, and many other locations, become toxic dumps of faces and toilet paper?

I have been attempting to talk with some people and bring a bit of my perspective as an American, and what we have done to help protect some of our more fragile mountain areas. But I am also aware that I’m an outsider in an old and well established community, and my input, though possibly useful, might not always be welcome. However, I chose to make these Islands my home because I love them more than any place else in the world. And their future is also mine now. So I hope things can be improved for the benefit of all.

Nature is fragile here in the north. And so it is up to all of us to help keep in clean and minimize our impact.

For more information about how to behave in the outdoors on Lofoten: Download the Lofoten Code of Conduct

For a list of local toilets and waste disposal locations, see: Clean Up Lofoten Map

Camera Info:
Iphone

Photo: Summer fog flowing over Vindstad from Helvetestind, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. June 13, 2017. 23:06

I wasn’t planning to post another photo from Helvetestind, but I also hadn’t planned on making my second trip up the mountain in 2 weeks. I guess these things just happen.

While guiding a small private tour over the last two weeks, decided to take some of the group out to Vindstad and Bunes beach for the evening. After a cold spring, summer had finally arrived and we were now a full week into t-shirt weather and non stop clear skies. As we caught a boat out to Vindstad in the early evening, I noticed some signs of fog out over Bunes. As the minutes passed, the fog increased, until it became a heavy cloud of grey flowing over the pass towards Vindstad.

The original plan had been to shoot the midnight sun from Bunes and some of the nearby view points. However, the beach was now fully concealed beneath a layer of heavy fog, the location of the sun barely distinguishable. ‘Should we go up?’ I asked. And with that I began my 2nd hike in the same number of weeks up Helvetestind.

Arriving at the summit, we were high above the fog, the wind was calm and it was t-shirt weather under the bright sun, now somewhat low in the northern sky. The beach was concealed, but the flowing fog more than made up for that! Just one of those magical nights in the mountains of Lofoten.

We hung around until just after midnight before heading back down again to catch our ride back to Sakrisøy at 02:00.

Camera Info:
Nikon D800
Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8
24mm
ISO 50
f 11
61 seconds
WB Daylight
10 stop B+W ND filter

Photo: Midnight sun over Bunes beach from Helvetestind, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. June 3, 2017. 23:56

On my first visit to Helvetestind some years ago I wasn’t sure if it was possible to camp on the summit, so I left my backpack lower down on the mountain before proceeding up, and seeing that the summit was a perfect place for a tent! Next time I said to myself. Well finally, last weekend was the next time.

With the controversy over whether Reinebringen is closed, can be closed, should be avoided, etc. going on at the moment. I often wonder why there is so much attention paid to one or two specific mountains on Lofoten. I knew Helvetestind to be one of the best views on Lofoten, and yet it has taken me years to get back there. Why? Because there are many other, equally fantastic views across these islands which have also kept me busy over the years. And it will probably be several more years before I return again. There are simply too many mountains here!

This summer has been off to a bit of a slow, cold start. I’ve been waiting until the landscape turns a bit more green before beginning with my mountain projects for the summer – most of which will focus on Vestvågøy this year. But for some reason, I had the strings pulling me back to Helvetestind for my first midnight sun summit of the season. And so, with a promising weather forecast over the weekend, I decided to go for it.

The light had been more dramatic over the previous days, but it was also far too windy for summit camping. And while I would have liked a bit more drama in the sky, it was a fairly calm and peaceful summer night. Although, it is rare that one can ever truly escape the wind here on Lofoten, my tent was a bit noisy as I went to bed around 02:00

Camera Info:
Nikon D800
Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8
14mm
ISO 100
f 9
1/20 second
WB Daylight