tent illuminated at night while wild camping at scenic Horseid beach, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Winter camping at Horseid beach, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  March 3, 2014. 18:47

I often get asked if its possible to reach so-and-so location in winter. And I can only really answer, ‘I don’t know.’ Winter on Lofoten can mean anything from hurricane force winds and -20˚C windchill in a hopeless whiteout, Waste deep powered snow, 7˚C and rain, or anything in between.

The start of 2014 saw Lofoten nearly devoid of snow. The calendar said winter, but the islands looked more like May. While the temperatures still remained relatively cold, and one had to be cautious of ice, most lower level hiking locations on the islands were easier than normal to reach.

Taking advantage of these condition, I visited all 3 of Moskenesøy’s best beaches.  I actually would have like a bit more snow and winter look, but it still nice to be out camping in places that I normally only visit in summer or autumn.

On this night, at Horseid beach, I was hoping for some northern lights, but they would not arrive unfortunately.

Camera Info:
Nikon D800
Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8
17mm
ISO 500
f 5
4 seconds
WB Daylight

Winter sunrise over mountain landscape, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Stormy winter mountain sunrise, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. January 31, 2015; 10:46

Following on last weeks image, here is a wide angle view of the same scene a little while later.  Quite a difference and hard to even tell I was at the same location. And even though 30 minutes or so had passed, the slowly rising sun of the arctic allows for a lot of time to work with the light – assuming no clouds get in the way.

Though I was only part-way to my goal of Ryten for the day, the wind was already beginning to pick up as I gained elevation.  I thought the shadows formed from the wind sculpted snow created an interesting foreground element to the scene, while the sun just rising over the distant hill adds a bit of balance to an area that would otherwise feel to dark to me.

Camera Info:
Nikon D810
Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8
14mm
ISO 250
f 16
1/80 second
WB Daylight

Winter sunrise over Solbjørn mountain peak, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Winter sunrise over Solbjørn mountain peak, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. January 31, 2015; 10:09

I got a late start on this morning, as I took my time packing my backpack for a planned night camping on Ryten. The beginning of the route begins in a low valley with limited visibility, but as we climbed the first hill, I could see the clouds overhead beginning to get some nice color.  Not knowing what was happening on the other side, I picked up the pace in an attempt to reach someplace with some light.

Well, there was no need to rush. It was one of those mornings where to sun seemed perfectly timed with the clouds, each moving in parallel with each other, keeping the light going and going.

Though my goal was Ryten – which turned out to be far to windy for camping, I spend more than an hour at this first location while shooting everything from 14mm to 200mm. This is a telephoto shot of Solbjørn peak, on Moskenesøy.

Stay tuned next week for the 14mm version of this scene.

Camera Info:
Nikon D810
Nikon 70-200mm f/4
200mm
f 10
ISO 160
1/100 seconds
WB Daylight

Winter sunser over snow covered coast at Å, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Winter sunset at Å, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. February 4, 2015. 14:59

The coastal cliffs at the end of the road, past the village of Å have been one of my most visited winter locations over the last years.

Particularly from late January to mid February, the sun meets the sea over the mountains at the ‘end’ of Lofoten, making it a perfect sunset location.  Later in the year, the sun moves too far to the west/north and this location doesn’t work as well, as a majority of the light gets blocked by the mountains.

Additionally, there is often sheltered sections of the cliffs to be found on especially windy, camera blowing over days. And even without a fresh layer of snow, on all but the calmest days, the crashing waves add a nice element to the scene – but don’t get too close!

Camera Info:
Nikon D810
Nikon 24mm f/3.5 tilt-shift
24mm
f 11
ISO 31
10 seconds
WB Daylight

Olstind mountain peak glows pink at sunrise, Toppøy, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Olstind winter sunrise, Toppøy, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. January 22, 2015

I’m not sure if I will ever have enough images of Olstind, and when I think I might, I’ll drive by and see light like this. There is a good reason that this is Lofoten’s, and perhaps one of Norway’s as a whole, most iconic mountain peaks. Rising like an Egyptian pyramid directly from the fjord, mountains don’t get much better in my opinion. Although someone had do go put a salmon farm at the bottom of the mountain a year or so back, which is a bit annoying!

With the southern oriented January sun, Olstind catches the first morning light, making the Reine area a good location to photograph in the mornings.  And for Olstind specifically, there is no shortage of locations from which to aim your camera at the mountain.

Camera Info:
Nikon D810
Nikon 24mm f/3.5 tilt-shift
24mm
f 13
ISO 31
20 seconds
WB Daylight
3 images: bottom, middle, top

 orbu cabins in winter, Toppøy, Reine Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Toppøy in winter, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. February 14, 2015. 08:28

A fresh layer of fallen snow at dawn – perfect! Though the heavy sky kept much color from appearing, a layer of snow covering the coastal rocks down to the tide line is one of my favorite types of winter scenes on Lofoten, and one that has to be taken advantage of when it appears.

I have shot many versions of this scene over the years, more often turning 90˚ to my right and looking across the fjord the the rising pyramid of Olstind, across the fjord. However, on this day I turned my attention to the Rorbu cabin, as the light was slightly more interesting in this direction, with a bit more contrast behind the mountain. And I have plenty compositions of Olstind in better light anyhow…

I think this is a nice ‘winter on Lofoten’ type scene: Rorbu, mountains, sea, and snow.

Camera Info:
Nikon D810
Nikon 24mm f/3.5
24mm
ISO 125
f 11
20 seconds
WB Daylight

Frozen sand of Bunes beach in winter, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Bunes beach frozen in winter, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  February 25, 2015; 12:28

After a night of rain while camping at Bunes beach in February the following day arrived with clearing weather and cooling temperatures.

In winter, Bunes doesn’t allow water to flow very easily to the sea, which means that a large part of the beach become a shallow 2-6 centimeter deep lake. With the addition of a night of rain, even more of the beach became waterlogged. As long as temperatures are above freezing, this is fine, just some puddles to walk through. When the temperature drops however, nearly the entire beach become a giant sheet of ice!

It is a long walk from the camping area at the back of the beach to the shoreline.  Now imagine the whole distance being frozen.  There were some awkward moments of time as we utilized our best skating techniques to cross the beach. If we weren’t lazy, crampons would have been a much safer option for walking…

Camera Info:
Nikon D810
Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8
14mm
ISO 100
f 11
1/200 second
WB Daylight

Colorful sunrise over mountains at Bunes Beach, Moskenesoy, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Colorful summer sunrise at Bunes beach, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  August 17, 2013; 04:45

After having nearly slept in – see Friday Photo #44 for a bit more backstory – my second morning on Lofoten presented me with one of the most colorful sunrises I have seen while on the Islands. My only regret is that I was up on Helvetestind the previous morning, which would have been an absolutely fantastic location for light like this, but Bunes beach was a close 2nd!

It was one of those moments where there is almost too much light, not that I’m complaining! Making it a little difficult to concentrate and the actual scene you are photographing when there is so much around to look at.  And then I wonder how many compositions I have time for before the light runs out. Luckily, I had a second camera which I balanced on a rock to shoot a time-lapse sequence – which you can see as the opening sequence of my ‘Northern Light’ video.

I returned to my tent with a small across my face on this morning. It was a good start to another Lofoten trip. Though this was slightly made up for with the storm that blew over during the afternoon/night as I headed over to Horseid beach.

I know I mentioned it yesterday, but I have now released my 3rd Lofoten ebook: Beaches of Lofoten. While my first two books focused on the seasons, this book is a location guide to the fantastic beaches of Lofoten, Bunes being on the the best.

Camera Info:
Nikon D800
Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8
52mm
f 13
ISO 50
.5 seconds
WB Daylight

View over Yttersand beach, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: View over Yttersand beach from Røren, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway

I’ve just added a new hiking guide for Røren – Ytresandheia. You can check it out HERE.

More just an easy ridge walk than a mountain peak, this easy little hike provides you with some fantastic views over Yttersand beach.  I hiked this route this past June, and it will also be featured in my upcoming ebook guide to the beaches of Lofoten – and the hikes to view them from above.  I’m currently about 9,000 words into the writing process, and while I’m intending for it to be a mini-guide, the ebook will probably come in well over 50 pages – I guess I get carried away sometimes.

Thanks to everyone who has already gotten a copy of my 2 previous guidebooks: Seasons on Lofoten – Summer and Seasons on Lofoten – Winter. Without your support, I’m not sure how much longer I could keep providing new content for this site.  So thank you!

Evening twilight over Reine from summit of Reinebringen, Moskenesoy, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Autumn twilight over Reine from Reinebringen, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. September 25, 2013. 19:00

The promise of a clear September sky brought me up Reinebringen for the night with hopes of northern lights. But even in the north, not every clear night brings auroras, and so, despite my 360˚ views, the sky remained quiet until a faint glow arrived at midnight, before quickly vanishing again.

But simply being alone, high in the mountains of Lofoten is a pleasant enough experience in and of itself. The northern lights would have just been an added bonus.  This night was cold, with a bit of frost beginning to form, the first signs that winter wasn’t too far away. A spent most of the night laying half-way out of my tent, so I cold keep an eye on the sky without having to move around too much and get out of my sleeping bag. As time passed, I eventually had to begin setting the alarm on my watch to go off every 20 minutes as my eyes grew tired and I drifted to sleep beneath the million stars overhead.

You can checkout the hiking guide to Reinebringen on my Lofoten hiking page.  The mountain is perhaps the most popular summit on Lofoten at the moment – more because the name has enter the public consciousness, rather than the view being so much better than anything else; I have several mountain views I like better myself.  But with the popularity, the fragile arctic landscape is beginning to suffer. Places that used to be trail are now blank, slippery rock as the covering dirt and vegetation have become warn away.  Be conscious of the impact each step makes; the land can handle 100 feet, it can’t handle 10,000.

Camera Info:
Nikon D800
Nikon 24mm f/3.5 tilt-shift
24mm
f 11
ISO 100
1/8 second
WB Daylight