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Friday Photo #562 – Changing Seasons

Photo: October snow flurries pass over Veggen and Himmeltindan, Vestvågøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. October 8, 2023. 15:08

As I wrote in last weeks post, the weekend’s north wind brought winter like snow flurries across Lofoten and icy roads across much of northern Norway. The temperature has warmed up slightly since then and heavy rain has fallen this week, but with the sun ever lower in the sky, one can sense that winter is not far away.

On the icy roads of Leknes Monday afternoon I noticed quite a few European motorhomes and camper vans still around the islands, and almost all still with summer tires on. This is getting a little risky so late in the year, and snow is already starting to fill up the mountain passes required to exit Lofoten – unless one plans to take the Hurtigruten all the way down to Bergen. Though the official date for winter tires in Northern Norway is October 15, it is expected that one drives as the conditions demand. If Norwegians crash in wintry conditions with summer tires on, they will lose their driving license on the spot. The police are nicer to foreigners though, who won’t have their license confiscated.

For those on a road trip on Lofoten at this time of year and waiting to see when you need to drive south, the weather of Lofoten itself is deceptive, as the islands are quite mild compared to the mountain areas required to leave Lofoten and reach Europe. I can see on the webcams that it looks like full winter over Bjørnfjell – Riksgränsen pass on the E10 east to Sweden. The E6 south over Saltfjellet is maintaining below freezing temperatures as well. This only leaves the coastal FV 17 road as a possible route south avoiding winter conditions at the moment. Though one will still need to pass over the high mountains on the E6 south of Trondheim, where winter is also fast approaching.

If you plan to stick around the north, I would suggest picking up a pair of winter tires soon – which can be bought from most gas stations around Lofoten. Though be prepared for a bit of a price shock if you’re not used to Norwegian prices!

Head over to my Instagram account for (almost) daily postings of the local conditions here on Lofoten: @distant.north

Camera Info:
Nikon z8
Nikon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6
145mm
ISO 100
f 6.3
1/400 Second
WB Daylight

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Friday Photo #561 – October Snow

Photo: A dusting of autumn snow covers the summit of Blåtind, Vestvågøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. October 5, 2023. 11:20

A gusty north wind has brought a chill to Lofoten over the last days, and with it, the first mountain snows of the season. And the temperature will continue to drop over the weekend, bringing the snow line down to 200 meters or so – while it is currently at around 400m. Already driving around the last days snow and slush has been falling along the roads as well, with the temperature dropping to 2-3 ˚c at times. If I can manage to find a long enough gap between the snow showers it will be time to put on the winter tires in the next days.

I just finished my only autumn photo workshop this season. And it was a tough one weather wise – it seems like it has rained every days since the beginning of September! But with the shifting of the winds to the rainy and low clouds from the southwest, the more dynamic snow showers from the north at least brought interesting conditions – and some occasional 20+ m/s wind gusts. Today the wind has calmed, before more gales arrive in the next days. So the fairly typical and quickly changing autumn weather on Lofoten.

It is days like these where the mountains fade in and out of the clouds and the light moves quickly. One moment you can be in sideways snow and sleet, while in the next the warm sun is shining brightly overhead. Looking at the radar, it is usually pretty straightforward to see how much time you’ll spend in the snow before the clouds pass and you’re under (somewhat) blue sky again.

This image is from just after the passing of a 10-15 minute snow shower while on the old road above Unstad. I was mostly shooting the more interesting composition of the clearing clouds over the summit of Øst-Himmeltind, but once all the clouds had cleared, I put on my 100-400mm lens to shoot the view south across Vestvågøy to the distant peak of Blåtind, with a fresh dusting of snow. Looking at the northern side of the peak, it is easy to see exactly where the snow line sits across the mountain.

Head over to my Instagram account for (almost) daily postings of the local conditions here on Lofoten: @distant.north

Camera Info:
Nikon z8
Nikon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6
290mm
ISO 200
f 6.3
1/800 Second
WB Daylight

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Friday Photo #553 – Last Days Of Summer

Photo: Evening light shines over the mountains of Vestvågøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. August, 6, 2023. 21:52

It is that time of year when I begin to remind myself to put a headlamp in my backpack – which of course will take me several weeks and multiple evenings wandering dawn from mountains in an ever darkening sky to actually do so. And despite a late summer heat wave this week, the signs are already here that the best of summer is over for this year. I’m looking forward to autumn, and have some big hiking plans, but I still wish summer would last a little longer here in the north. Despite the return of the northern lights in a couple weeks, I’m not ready for the long, cold nights yet.

Lofoten had a fantastic summer this year. Warm, dry, and calm, it was the best summer for a while. Even so, I found myself lacking motivation for much hiking and generally only visited my local ‘exercise’ mountains of Haugheia or Smordalskammen just to keep up a bit of fitness. This was also the first summer where I’ve felt a bit overcrowded. It was as busy with tourism as ever. But more so, local changes like new, expensive parking fees, and the closing of previously existing parking areas, have made it more difficult to visit my favorite areas. For example, it is cheaper for me to take my van to Værøy for a weekend than it now is to camp at Bunes or Horseid beach due the near extortion level of the parking cost in Reine – which is even more expensive than parking at the airport or in Tromsø or Bodø. If one enjoys hiking, it is getting expensive to visit many areas of Lofoten these days.

I also find myself looking beyond Lofoten much more these days, to other areas of Norway and beyond. I’m 3/4th through my biggest ebook project yet – more info once things come closer to completion early next year hopefully, as well as a new 200km hike which I’ll hopefully complete this autumn. So I’ve actually been taking a lot of photos, just not that much of Lofoten, and even less so of Lofoten’s mountains. Maybe once these two big projects (hopefully) are completed next year, I’ll feel a bit less pressure and will be out and about around Lofoten again. There are still plenty of new mountains for me to hike, even on nearby Vestvågøy, such as this image from Blåtind from last Sunday.

Head over to my Instagram account for (almost) daily postings of the local conditions here on Lofoten: @distant.north

Camera Info:
Nikon Z8
Nikon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6
125mm
ISO 200
f 7.1
1/500 Second
WB Daylight

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Friday Photo #552 – Lofoten Moose

Photo: Bull moose standing among summer birch trees, Vestvågøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. July 14, 2023. 19:35

I’m too lazy to be a proper wildlife photographer, but when to situation presents itself, I’ll at least make an attempt. Even if just running errands or shopping in Leknes I’ll take my camera with me, as there’s always a small chance that something interesting might occur. There are a few moose in the area that I need to pass through and a few times a year I’ll see them, though usually too far for any photography.

Driving home on this rainy evening the other week I got lucky to spot a bull moose just on the side of the road and, more importantly, near to an area where I could park and not cause a traffic jam! Careful not to keep my distance, he sat there casually grazing while I shot through the rain until I decided I was wet enough. Not the most interesting photo in the world, but it is not often I photograph the local moose on Vestvågøy.

Head over to my Instagram account for (almost) daily postings of the local conditions here on Lofoten: @distant.north

Camera Info:
Nikon Z8
Nikon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6
230mm
ISO 1000
f 5
1/250 Second
WB Daylight

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Friday Photo #550- Cloudberries

Cloudberries - Friday Photo #550

Photo: Arctic Gold – ripening Moltebær – Cloudberry patch patch in mid July, Vestvågøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. July 19, 2023. 18:12

As the long days of summer slowly begin to fade from the north a new season slowly emerges: berry season. Wild berries cover Lofoten, and all of Norway, and their picking is a popular activity among the local population. Blueberries and cranberries both grow in abundance across the wild hillsides of Lofoten. But there is one berry that is the most coveted of all, the cloudberry – Moltebær.

Wild berry picking as allowed under Norwegian Friluftsloven – Outdoor Laws. However, Nordland and Finmark-Troms have a special exception for cloudberries, which allow the owner of private land to prohibit gathering of them – though it is still allowed to pick and consume on the spot. I’ve even heard stories from the old days about fierce neighborhood rivalries around the best collecting areas.

This year, perhaps thanks to a wet and rainy May, followed by a warm and sunny June, they seem to be filling the hillsides in abundance as they ripen the the late summer sun. This large patch was just one of many along a popular hiking route. They are still a week or more away from being ripe, but no doubt a more than a few locals are keeping a close eye on them, waiting for the first signs of ripeness. I wouldn’t be surprised if they literally disappear overnight one day.

I must say that I’m not actually that much of a fan of them. I just find the taste a bit odd, and generally prefer eating my way up the blueberry hillsides when I’m out hiking. But if you find yourself wandering through a patch of bright orange berries in the coming weeks, give one a try – but keep an eye out for the granny peaking through the window curtains to make sure you don’t take too many!

Head over to my Instagram account for (almost) daily postings of the local conditions here on Lofoten: @distant.north

Camera Info:
Nikon Z8
Nikon 24-120mm f/4
46mm
ISO 100
f 5
1/500 Second
WB Daylight

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Friday Photo #542 – Over Unstad Beach

Photo: Evening view over Unstad beach, Vestvågøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. May 29, 2022. 22:29

With no darkness for the next 2 months, May is the beginning of my midnight sun hiking season. I typically don’t camp too much at this time of year unless I’m heading to a more distant location. Otherwise, I find it easier just to pick a location, start walking, then return home sometime in the early morning hours. And then hope my neighbour doesn’t knock on my door at 09:00!

This evening I actually had no plan. First I headed up Saupstadtind, then over to (lower) Skrådalstind, and then I just wandered along winding sheep trails until I was over Unstad. I’ve hiked the mountains in the background of the image numerous times, but this was my first time on this side of the valley. And I think overall, this is an infrequently visited part of Lofoten. I attempted a bit of a shortcut on the way down, but it turned into something of a bushwhack at times.

With June just a few days away in this image, you can see the difference between the already green fields of the valley vs. the still relatively brown mountains rising above. The transition from winter to spring to summer is a gradual process on Lofoten; beginning at sea level and then rising higher up the mountains as time passes.

This image also shows the difference between Innmark, the green fields, and utmark, the mountains rising above. This is important in the regulations of Allemannsretten, which most people just think of as, ‘it’s free to camp where you want in Norway.’ This actually only applies to utmark. Though it is generally tolerated in many roadside areas and beaches, even if they are innmark. However, for Lofoten specifically, the increased pressure of tourism has seen more regulations and controls put in place in recent years. And there are even some calling for an end to Allemannsretten in the utmark. Only time will tell if these old traditions and freedoms still have a place in the modern world. But if everyone is respectful of the landscape, hopefully future generations can still enjoy the right to roam!

Head over to my Instagram account for (almost) daily postings of the local conditions here on Lofoten: @distant.north

Camera Info:
Nikon Z7 II
Nikon 14-30mm f/4
21mm
ISO 100
f 8
1/60 Second
WB Daylight

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Friday Photo #540 – May Grey

Photo: Mountain birch tree in grey clouds on Haugheia, May 10, 2023. 14:53

May is usually the start of sunset-to-sunrise season of Lofoten, and I had actually already written an article about that for this weeks post. However, May this year has been on the grey side and there hasn’t been too much in the way of colourful nights lately. Even when the sky has been clear overhead, there’s oven been a layer of cloud over the northern horizon, which largely blocks any color which might occur.

The last few days have actually felt like cold summer days, with a mild temperature around 10˚c, still air, and low, misty clouds concealing the peaks. Even on a Wednesday hike up the low ridge of Haugheia for a bit of exercise, clouds were blowing across the summit forest leaving me wanting around in a sea of grey. Although for the wind twisted mountain birch grove at the summit, I actually like this type of low visibility and it removes the distractions of the background or sky and allows more of an emphasis on the shapes of the trees. Even better is when this occurs in winter.

I only shot a couple images on this hike as I often prefer the shoot the trees from a low vantage point, but the flip screen on my camera stopped working a couple months ago, and I’m too lazy to otherwise have to lie on the ground for some trees I’ve already shot dozens of times. One difficulty with living in Lofoten is that any sort of equipment repair takes a long time! So I would like to fix my camera soon, but I also can’t be without one for a month or more in the height of summer…

Head over to my Instagram account for (almost) daily postings of the local conditions here on Lofoten: @distant.north

Camera Info:
Nikon Z7 II
Nikon 24-120 f/4
110mm
ISO 100
f 8
1/250 Second
WB Daylight

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Friday Photo #539 – Between Seasons

Photo: Dark clouds over Bulitind from Smordalskammen, Vestvågøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. May 1, 2023. 16:36

It is that time of year that locals often call false spring, winter part 3-4-5, the May summer tire club, and various other jokes about the weather. After a few ‘warm’ days in April it’s easy to think that the trend will continue. But almost reliably, the the temperature will drop as winter fights to hold on a little longer. This last week has been a perfect example of that weather as the wind shifted north and snow flurries have been passing over the islands, with Wednesday’s temperature dropping down to -4.8˚c and leaving my backyard and surrounding fields with a layer of snow.

Once the sun returns however, the snow quickly melts until the next wave of snow passes. Winter takes over the shadows while the sun brings spring. But overall, the snow is slowly melting away and the coastal farmlands are beginning to turn green. I kinda lost track of time a bit this week noticing a few flowers on the side of the road and thinking it was an early spring. Until I remember that it was already a few days into May! So the pace of ‘the greenening’ (not a real word, but sounds cool) of the land seems normal this year.

On a May day hike in the cold blustery wind on Smordalskammen a small recent dusting of snow survived in a few places while in more exposed areas it had melted, creating these cool patterns across the land. The sun was high over Bulitind, but luckily the clouds concealed it from time to time for a slightly more balanced image.

Loosing track of time again while planning where to hike today, I suddenly realised that sunset is now at 22:20. I always find it hard to image that it’s still snowing but the days are already longer than midsummer in Berlin or London, for example. Winter weather but summer light. The midnight sun is now only 3 weeks away!

Head over to my Instagram account for (almost) daily postings of the local conditions here on Lofoten: @distant.north

Camera Info:
Nikon Z7 II
Nikon 14-30mm f/4
14mm
ISO 100
f 8
1/1000 Second
WB Daylight

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Friday Photo #538 – Misty April Mountains

Photo: Mountains emerge from misty clouds, Eltofttuva, Vestvågøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. April 24, 2022. 14:19

Last week I was somewhat optimistic that it would be an early start to barbecue season this year. But unfortunately, what I thought would be a warm April has cooled again and a layer of snow was once again sitting in my yard over the past weekend. So I think I’ll have to wait a little longer this year. But that is almost always Lofoten at this time of year – sitting in a limbo of not-winter and not-summer. Up north they are still getting good ski days in the mountains, while down south the land is already turning green. On Lofoten, we just wait.

I actually haven’t been out shooting too much lately. There has been some nice light, but I’m often stuck on the computer most of the day and then the thought of sitting up on a mountain in the cold wind waiting for sunset at 21:45 turns me a bit lazy. Though I guess I probably need to get the legs moving soon in preparation for summer, as even after my winter photo workshop season ended, I only managed a few days on skis before the snow melted away. But if I have to be stuck on the computer, I’d rather it be now than during the summer.

Another reason is that my photographic focus isn’t on Lofoten at the moment. In 2020 I had meant to spend most of my time hiking and photographing in the eastern parts of Lofoten for a new ebook companion to my West Lofoten Hikes ebook. But it is actually a lot of driving for me to get to the eastern parts of Lofoten, and with everything surrounding Corona, I had to put that project on the shelf for a while as I simply couldn’t afford the driving required.

But as the world normalised again, I found I had a new interest, which is my current ongoing ebook project. This one is my most ambitious one to date and I’ve already put in a few weeks on it during the last couple years. If I am lucky I might finish up most of the photography by this autumn and the writing over winter. I guess I found it easier, and more interesting, to take a longer trip a bit further to new places, than just driving around in circles over Lofoten all summer. And there are so many beautiful regions in Norway, that I sometimes wonder how they are so overlooked. I guess it’s just branding and name recognition, like any other commercial product. I could spend 10 lifetimes just trying to photograph Norway.

So, with my mind on big plans for other parts of Norway, I’m a bit lazy about day to day photography on Lofoten without having a project to work on. Though the good news is that I still have a backlog of hikes that I’ve never added to the website for some reason. Mostly this will be some mountains on Vestvågøy which I don’t have anywhere else to use at the moment, and a few ones from West Lofoten Hikes ebook that never made it online. Though some of those hikes in that will remain only in the ebook for the time being.

This week’s photo is from one of those new hikes on the website, taken on a misty and rainy April hike to Eltofttuva – hiking guide here. I think I’ve probably skied from the summit of Eltofttuva 10x more than I’ve hiked it, but as a fairly easy short hike just east of Leknes, I still usually make a couple trips a year, mostly for a bit of afternoon exercise with friends.

On this day, we were mostly in thick grey clouds and minimal visibility. I could see on the radar that the rain would (mostly) pass shortly after arriving at the summit, so we waited around a bit until I could at least see some distant peaks begin to emerge. I actually think this shot came out quite nice for what the day looked like. My only complaint would be the unfortunate location of the power lines running though the bottom of the frame. But nothing I can do about that…

Head over to my Instagram account for (almost) daily postings of the local conditions here on Lofoten: @distant.north

Camera Info:
Nikon Z7 II
Nikon 24-200 f/4-6.3
175mm
ISO 100
f 8
1/250 Second
WB Daylight

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Friday Photo #526 – Eye Of Uttakleiv Storm

Photo: Winter waves wash over the rocky coastline concealing the Eye of Uttakleiv, Uttakleiv, Vestvågøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. February 24, 2022. 15:32

I had originally planned another image of the full moon for this weeks post. But as the evening light faded I could see waves crashing over the small rocky islands off the coast from my house – the rocks I use as a gauge to see how stormy the sea is. And so with Lofoten well into winter, I thought I might talk about weather and timing for certain locations in Lofoten. And specifically for today, the famed ‘Eye of Uttakleiv.’

Where is the Eye in the above image? Well, that is specifically the problem I want to talk about with timing and weather. In the case of the above image, the Eye in concealed beneath the waves and tide of a stormy winter’s day. While I like the image itself well enough, had my intent been to photography the Eye on this day, I would have been out of luck. It was simply too stormy and the waves were crashing too high, even at low tide.

In general, I think the stormier the better for seascapes, particularly at Uttakleiv. But if one was hoping for a photo like the image below, a stormy day often won’t work. Or, I should be even more detailed and say that that a storm from a southern direction, bringing a southern swell and waves, will likely work for the Eye. With the above image, the storm and swell was out of the north, which crashes directly into the bay at Uttakleiv.

If you have have a few days on Lofoten and the ability to select locations for ideal conditions, it can be useful to use and app/website like windy.com to check the swell size and direct as it hits Lofoten. If you want stormy coastal conditions, head to parts of the islands where the swell is impacting directly. If you want calmer coastal conditions, head to the opposite side of the islands. Although, since you can’t move the Eye of Uttakleiv to another location, if it’s on your photo list, you’ll want to keep an eye out for a calmer swell on that part of Lofoten.

Head over to my Instagram account for (almost) daily postings of the local conditions here on Lofoten: @distant.north

Camera Info:
Nikon Z7 II
Nikon 14-30mm f/4
17mm
ISO 31
f 13
10 seconds
WB Daylight

Photo: Calm winter conditions at Eye of Uttakleiv, Vestvågøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway.

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