Friday Photo #547 – The Flow Of Fog

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Photo: Sea fog over Bunes beach swirls around mountain peaks from Helvetestind, Lofotodden national park, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. June 13, 2017. 22:59

A northern wind on a hot summer day is always something that I’m weary of in weather forecasts, as this is the bringer of the fog monster to the yttersia – outer coast of Lofoten. Several times each summer I have to alter my planned hiking or camping locations due to the fog as it is better to stay on the sunny southern side of the islands than sitting in the cold, dark for cloaking the northern side.

However, if you can get above the fog, which usually rises no higher than 400-500m, then you will be standing above a sea of clouds and with mountain peaks rising like islands in the sky. On this particular night during a photo workshop several years ago we had simply planned for an evening at Bunes beach and to return sometime after midnight. However, before even leaving Reine, I could see fog flowing over the pass and down into Vindstad, so i knew a change of plans would be likely.

Though the fog was still initially somewhat light and the sun appeared from time to time, it was evident that it would mostly be a waste of time hanging around Bunes beach all evening, so I decided for plan b, and took the group up Helvetestind – hiking guide here, which I was confident would remain above the fog.

In my opinion, the view from Helvetestind over Bunes beach is one of the best to be found in Lofoten. Arriving at the summit this evening, there was no beach to be seen, only an ocean of fog. I’ve already posted a couple other images from this evening serval years ago: Friday Photo #233, and Friday Photo #245, but never this version of the scene.

The below image is just a normal shutter speed photo. I’n my opinion it’s just a bit ‘ehhh…’ and I would have rather had a view of the beach below in this case. In the above image though, using a 10 stop neutral density filter for a 60 second exposure, you can see how the movement of the fog completely transforms the image into something much more dynamic and interesting. Here, With the peaks rising over the flowing fog, I’m okay without being able to see the beach below. Which also reminds me that I haven’t been to Helvetestind in a couple years, so probably time to head out there soon!

Head over to my Instagram account for (almost) daily postings of the local conditions here on Lofoten: @distant.north

Camera Info:
Nikon D800
Nikon 24-70 f/2.8
24mm
ISO 50
f 13
60 Seconds
WB Daylight
10 Stop ND filter

Hiker on summit of Helvetestind mountain peak takes in view over coastal fog, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Friday Photo #546 – June Wildflowers

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Photo: June wildflowers overlooking Nappstraumen at midnight, Flakstadøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. June 22,2020. 23:53

I often see searches for the best time to visit Lofoten, which, in my opinion, is an almost impossible question to answer in that it entirely personal and there are so many variables. Even beyond the unpredictable and ever changing weather, there are a myriad of other micro elements that may make one person prefer one time and year while the next is looking for something else entirely. So there is not a one size fits all answer to when is ‘best’ to visit Lofoten.

The above being said, if there is a mood or feeling I look forwards to every year, it is walking around the lush, flower filed meadows of early summer sometime late in the evening after I’ve lost track of time, as time no longer matters. Perhaps it is merely because the long and cold winter is still a recent memory, or the fresh green has only been around a couple weeks. Or maybe it is because I know the midnight sun will shine in the sky for another month, so I know I still have many days of summer ahead to enjoy.

A nice and warm summer evening in June is one of my favorite times just the be here and and enjoy the timelessness of it all. Photographically, it is almost impossible to capture essence of it all as it is much more than a frozen moment in time. Much like I don’t think an image of the northern lights can fully capture the experience of seeing them dance overhead. A nice summer evening in the north is something that must be experienced.

So is it the best time of year? I don’t know. But for living on Lofoten, it is a necessary part of the circle of seasons and something I look forward to.

Head over to my Instagram account for (almost) daily postings of the local conditions here on Lofoten: @distant.north

Camera Info:
Nikon D850
Nikon 24-70 f/2.8
45mm
ISO 100
f 5
1125 Second
WB Daylight

Friday Photo #545 – Twilight Ferry

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Photo: MF Landegode ferry sailing into midnight twilight crossing from Moskenesøy to Bodø, Lofoten Islands, Norway. June 27, 2022. 23:54

The beginning of June sees the ferries switch from their winter timetable of 2 crossings per day to the summer schedule, of 8 crossings per day and ferries running round the clock between Bodø and Moskenes. If you are driving to Lofoten from further south, it is likely that you’ll arrive on one of these ferries. And if you’re lucky, it will be a calm sailing like this. If you’re unlucky, well…

You can find more info about the ferries at: Getting to Lofoten

Here I was actually returning to Moskenes after a few days out of Værøy, a wonderful small island itself. I would like to travel out there more often, but unfortunately, the winter ferry schedule does not have good connections between Moskenes and Værøy, so its really only possible in the summer.

I always enjoy the challenge of trying to identify the peaks from sea, as it’s not a direction I see them from very often. Here, the highest peak is Skottind, decending to Nonstind/Ballstadheia, the high point at the front of the boat. While the area further in the distance are the mountains around Justadtind.

Head over to my Instagram account for (almost) daily postings of the local conditions here on Lofoten: @distant.north

Camera Info:
Nikon Z7 II
Nikon 24-200mm f/4-6.3
200mm
ISO 250
f 6.3
1/500 Second
WB Daylight

Friday Photo #544 – Måstad Shadows

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Photo: Mountain shadows surround the village of Måstad, Værøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. June 26, 2022. 16:28

Formerly home to up to 150 people at the beginning of the 1900’s, the isolated village of Måstad slowly became depopulated after WW2 as the located proved to be too isolated for the upcoming modern world. Now, only a few houses remain, mostly used as summer holiday homes, in the roadless village, reached only by foot or boat.

In the old days, Puffins were a source of food, and the villagers would hike over the steep mountains to the nesting cliffs of the far side. This picture is taken from one of those old trails, as I was on the way to Måhornet – hiking guide here, the southern most peak on Værøy.

Normally, I would like a little more dramatic weather, as mid-day blue sky is pretty boring and harsh. In this case though, I like the jagged shadows of the mountain ridge as it almost frames the village. On my way back down from the mountain the sun had already fallen too low and the entire area was now in the shadow, and the scene had lost all impact.

Head over to my Instagram account for (almost) daily postings of the local conditions here on Lofoten: @distant.north

Camera Info:
Nikon Z7 II
Nikon 14-30mm f/4
19mm
ISO 100
f 8
1/320 Second
WB Daylight

Friday Photo #543 – Håen Værøy

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Photo: View west from Håen over Måstadvika and mountains of Måstadfjellet, Værøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. June 25, 2022. 12:22

Outside of ‘mainland’ Lofoten, the view from Håen on Værøy is another one of Lofoten’s most iconic views. For some reason though, it was only last summer that I visited Værøy for the first time, and I instantly fell in love with the little island. To me, it felt like returning to what Lofoten was 15-20 years ago; a calm and relaxing place without all the bucket list urgency that seems to exist on Lofoten these days.

Probably best know for this view from Håen – hiking guide here – Værøy actually has a nice variety of well developed trails. Enough to keep one busy for a few days at least. The longest hike, to Måhornet – hiking guide here – the mountain in the far distance is quite a nice adventure along the coastline before climbing the old trail used by villagers to access the puffin cliffs on the far side of the island.

I have a somewhat busy schedule this summer, but hopefully I can get back out to Værøy again to finish up a few more hikes. I like to go later in the autumn, but unfortunately, the ferry schedule from Moskenes only really works during the summer. During the winter schedule, there is only 1-2 connections per week, making more planning and time on the island required. But northern lights from this view could be worth the effort!

Head over to my Instagram account for (almost) daily postings of the local conditions here on Lofoten: @distant.north

Camera Info:
Nikon Z7 II
Nikon 14-30mm f/4
16mm
ISO 100
f 9
1/320 Second
WB Daylight

Friday Photo #541 – Common Gull

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Photo: Common Gull swoops in for attack, Flakstadøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. May 31, 2021. 21:53

With summer just around the corner, many of Lofoten’s migratory birds will have chosen their nesting sites and begin laying eggs. In my valley, I can already see dozens of pairs of mostly common gulls spread out across the moorland. Every once in a while when something passes through, they will scatter to the sky in a flurry of noise and commotion.

Most of the migratory bird species on Lofoten are ground nesting: the various gull types, arctic skuas, oystercatchers, curlews, geese, and more. The result is the parents can have various levels of aggression when one passes too closely – particularly the arctic skuas, which might actually physically contact you, while most of the others just do a near flyby.

If you are just passing though an area, then there is not too much to be done, but do keep an eye out of where you are walking to hopefully avoid stepping on a nest full of eggs. The most common nesting areas are in the wild, coastal heather terrain which offers plenty of cover. But not all birds are this smart, and if you’re walking around the villages in late June, its likely you’ll see fresh chicks walking around the sidewalks and harbours at times.

If you are camping however, it is best that you pay attention to any annoyed birds. Camping too close to a nest will cause the parents to keep away, which might cause the eggs never to hatch, or, allow predators like stoats to approach and eat them. I’ve seen a few abandoned nests, still with eggs, in areas where it was obvious people had been frequently camping over the summer.

Just something to keep in mind while out enjoying Lofoten’s nature.

Head over to my Instagram account for (almost) daily postings of the local conditions here on Lofoten: @distant.north

Camera Info:
Nikon D850
Nikon 70-200mm f/4
135mm
ISO 400
f 4.5
1/800 Second
WB Daylight

Friday Photo #513 – Sea Eagle

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Photo: Sea Eagle sitting on rock, Flakstadøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. June 3, 2021. 13:56

I think with any wildlife image I post I state that I have little to no skill as a wildlife photographer – I’m far too lazy to ever get far with that type of photography and basically just look like a dude with a point-and-shoot camera compared to work I see many people putting out on a regular basis. With that being said, I will take the opportunity to try with it presents itself.

In this case, I’m typically in the habit of driving around with my old D850 + telephoto lens attached when going about on my normal daily tasks on Lofoten. And then, every once in the while on my way to or from home I might catch one of the neighbourhood sea eagles sitting on one off the coastal rocks.

I learned in my few early attempts that if it even looked like I was slowing my van down for a closer look that they would quickly fly away. So now if I spot an eagle on a rock I know to drive around the corner and park out of sight, quickly grab my camera, then do my best to sneak up on the far side of the road. This typically works with moderate success, and I’ll get a shot of an eagle, such as this one, from time to time.

Head over to my Instagram account for (almost) daily postings of the local conditions here on Lofoten: @distant.north

Camera Info:
Nikon D850
Nikon 200-500mm f/5.6
500mm
ISO 250
f 5.6
1/1600 second
WB Daylight

Friday Photo #503 – Aurora Season

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Photo: August northern lights spiral into the sky over Storsandnes beach, Flakstadøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. August 31, 2020. 00:50

This week it is my yearly reminder that the northern lights are not just a winter phenomenon and can already become visible in the last week of August in the sky over Lofoten.

Lofoten’s aurora season runs roughly from August 20 – April 20; so they are visible from Lofoten for 8 months of the year! For the very early and late auroras to be visible, it will typically have to be from a moderate solar storm, pushing the northern lights fully overhead or even into the southern part of the sky. Low to moderate activity needs a little longer to be visible, as the northern horizon still glows quite bring into the first weeks of September and from the first week of April.

Happy aurora season for all those coming north in the next months. The sun’s activity is still increasing over the next years, so the northern lights will be more common than previous years – it just requires the weather to cooperate!

Head over to my Instagram account for (almost) daily postings of the local conditions here on Lofoten: @distant.north

Camera Info:
Nikon Z7 II
Nikon 20mm f/1.8
20mm
ISO 2000
f 2
2.5 seconds
WB Daylight

Friday Photo #502 – Summer Wind

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Photo: Clouds of beach sand blow across Horseid beach, Lofotodden national park, Moskenesøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. August 8, 2021. 10:02

While the weather forecast looked decent for a couple nights camping at Horseid beach, already during the early morning hours of the first night I could sense the wind picking up do to the increased shaking of my tent. By the time I emerged from my sleeping bag, it was a proper wind storm blowing across the beach. I had planned for a 2nd night, but with conditions as they were, I decided to pack up and catch the ferry home – better to return later than a potentially broken tent.

August is typically my favourite month for camping on Lofoten, as the nights are finally long enough that carrying a tent makes sense. Otherwise, in June and July when I will typically be shooting the late night hours anyhow, I can just head home when I’m finished and enjoy the comfort of my bed – as well as a lighter backpack! But in August, the headlamp and tent begin to be carried more often.

Still technically summer and having checked the weather forecast, one still always needs to be observant of conditions and adjust plans accordingly. For this scene, it wasn’t just the wind that led me call my trip a day short, but also that the large clouds of sand that you can see in the center of the image were blowing right across the camping areas of Horseid, leaving everything covered in a fine dusting of sand. Walking back into the wind was also a struggle, and I kept to the right side of the beach to avoid as much blowing stand as possible, but it was still there, stinging eyes and skin for the 1km walk across the beach.

Head over to my Instagram account for (almost) daily postings of the local conditions here on Lofoten: @distant.north

Camera Info:
Nikon Z7 II
Nikon 24-200mm f/4-6.3
24mm
ISO 100
f 8
1/640 second
WB Daylight

Friday Photo #501 – Rainbow Season

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Photo: Partial rainbow over distant mountains of Vestvågøy, Lofoten Islands, Norway. August 5, 2022. 16:22

Like last year, this year has also been a cool and wet July and beginning of August on Lofoten, with July receiving almost 2x the normal amount of rainfall. Though this isn’t too bad, considering areas along the Helgeland coast have had the wettest summer since 1900! I’ve been attempting to make a few trips over to Helgeland throughout the summer, but the long term forecasts simply show near endless rain most of the time.

The wet weather has also led to a significant number of mountain rescues so far this summer, including the death of a young hiker on Reinebringen in June (the second death on Reinebringen in a 6 month period, the previous being in December 2021). The trails of Lofoten, especially the popular ones which are over-eroded and generally unmaintained are in pretty terrible condition due to all the mud. Even whin the sun briefly shines, I’ve mostly been sticking to quiet, untraveled areas that are mostly off-trail, as its far safer than muddy, slippery trails where it is easy to have a quick slip and end up with a sprained ankle or worse.

Fortunately, with the rain comes rainbows. This day last week was full of them and I was quite distracted from work while always looking out the window. It would have been a nice day for mountains views and a good soaking, but a strong south wind was blowing across the islands, so better to keep to low ground. Luckily, my office window still has a decent enough view!

Head over to my Instagram account for (almost) daily postings of the local conditions here on Lofoten: @distant.north

Camera Info:
Nikon Z7 II
Nikon 24-200mm f/4-6.3
48mm
ISO 100
f 8
1/320 second
WB Daylight